"Ryanator122" (hawkeye122)
09/23/2016 at 19:35 • Filed to: None
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"Ryanator122" (hawkeye122)
09/23/2016 at 19:35 • Filed to: None | 0
| 22 |
I think I’ve posted about this before, but I have a 1976 Chevy Pickup. It’s beige. It’s slow. It has a 350.
What are easy mods for this beast? Is there a common junkyard truck with swappable/newer parts? What are the best cheap Chinese tires for it?
HammerheadFistpunch
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 19:44 |
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A k&n air filter, cherry bombs an edlebrock sticker and your all set
DarkCreamyBeer
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 19:48 |
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LS swap.
Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 19:58 |
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12V Cummins and NV4500.
crowmolly
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 20:01 |
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Easy mods? Headers, intake, 4 barrel.
If you have, say, $1000 to burn you can get a set of Vortec heads (set up for higher lift), stamped self guiding rockers, an intake, a Voodoo 268 or Comp XE268 and probably double your horsepower or more.
Many people have just went straight to the GenIII+ SBC platform so Gen I stuff can be had on the cheap. Your engine *probably* has a 4 bolt main block and a solid bottom end. The cam, heads, and intake are the big restrictions.
BorkBorkBjork
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 20:04 |
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The sky is the limit. You can do anything from a simple heads/cam/headers swap and get around 300 hp to a full engine swap and get north of 600. You have unlimited options with a Small Block Chevy.
lone_liberal
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 20:16 |
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They built that engine for close to 50 years, yes there are many, many speed parts for it and there are many guides on how to build one for whatever your budget may be. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-build-a-cheap-small-block-chevy/
Tristan
> crowmolly
09/23/2016 at 20:22 |
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This. Vortec heads, compatible 4 barrel intake, Edelbrock 1406, long tube headers and the cam of your choice.
XJDano
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 20:27 |
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Ryanator122
> crowmolly
09/23/2016 at 20:43 |
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Vortec heads meaning heads from a newer SBC with Vortec written on them? Do they all fit? How can I tell if they do?
TheRealBicycleBuck
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 20:52 |
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As everyone has said, it’s a 350, so it has lots of potential. What makes it so slow right now is the malaise-era emissions restrictions. They reduced emissions by reducing the airflow through the engine. More air means more fuel means more power. Opening the pipes at both ends (intake/exhaust) is a great start. If you want more power, you will have to get rid of the internal restrictions. That means bigger valves and a cam that keeps them open for longer. Some heads can be reworked to install bigger valves, but it’s usually easier and cheaper to just buy new heads designed to flow better from the beginning. To get the most from your new heads, the opening height and duration should be adjusted, so you are looking at a new cam. Oh, and more air with more fuel should get a bigger spark and the timing will need to be adjusted, so you might have to upgrade the ignition system.
The engine is also pretty old. It may have compression problems. If so, a ring job is the easiest fix, but if you are getting deep into the internals, you might as well do a full rebuild and take care of the worn bearings, perhaps a larger bore and larger pistons.
The sky is the limit. Well, that and your budget.
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Ryanator122
> TheRealBicycleBuck
09/23/2016 at 21:04 |
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Are there easy off-the-shelf parts to find or would it be possible to find pats cannibalized from newer trucks?
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crowmolly
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 21:11 |
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96-99 Chevy 350 heads. They will have centerbolt valve covers and vertical intake bolts. Casing numbers end in 062 or 904 I believe.
They are a direct bolt on to an earlier SBC. You just need a Vortec intake and self aligning rocker arms. Both of which you can probably get used.
Their big Achilles heel is that factory castings can’t take too much cam lift without modifications. But if you are doing a budget build/truck engine you may be fine as-is. If not, this swap was VERY common 10 years ago and there’s a lot of documentation out there. It’s not hard to do.
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BorkBorkBjork
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 21:29 |
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http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/1312-easy-street-350-small-block-engine-build/
shop-teacher
> Ryanator122
09/23/2016 at 22:36 |
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You can gain some power with a better intake manifold, headers, a better carb, and a bit bigger cam.
That said, mid 70's motors have very low compression, and there’s only so much lipstick you can put on that pig. You can gain some of that compression and power back by swapping a set of heads that have smaller combustion chambers. The best “junkyard” heads are Vortec heads from ‘96-’98 Silverado 1500's, ‘96-’00 Silverado 2500/3500's, and ‘96-’02 full size vans. These heads require a specific intake manifold, because they have a different bolt pattern.
There’s really only so much you can do without either ripping the bottom end of the motor apart and putting in a better piston and rod combo for higher compression. Or just swapping the whole motor out for a new crate 350.
Die-Trying
> crowmolly
09/23/2016 at 23:18 |
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THIS.............
..........but when choosing your parts, make sure to get them so that they are all working in the same rpm range.
BE VERY HONEST WITH YOURSELF ON HOW YOU WILL DRIVE THE TRUCK. choose your parts FOR that. trucks are heavy, and do well to make torque.
DONT get a cam that works in the 3000+ range, and an intake that works off idle to 3000 dont buy too much (big of a)carb (smaller are more responsive)........... you’ll end up with a dog of an engine.
figure out where you’ll be at (rpm wise) going down the highway at 65/70 with the gears that you have, and work on having your setup come in a ways before that..........
find out where the heads you got/are getting peak out on flow.(( most stockish heads will be in the .500 range.)DO SOME RESEARCH) modify the heads to support THAT amount of lift, and buy springs that support that much cam. but dont go overboard on springs, they start getting expensive.
if your torque converter wont match the new cam opperating range, get one that will.
i have had nice experiences with the comp magnum 280 cam, in a truck, with a manual transmission........... idle cleans up at around 1800, and keeps pulling to around 7000-ish( thats about as far as i ever needed to wind out my truck) makes good torque.
buy cam button, set it properly............ cam walk is real..........
long tube truck headers............for torque.............
dual plane intakes .......... for torque............
jimz
> Ryanator122
09/24/2016 at 07:18 |
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I know I’m getting old when I read a car site and see someone ask “what’s a Chevy 350?”
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Ryanator122
> jimz
09/24/2016 at 17:42 |
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For the record, it was rather tongue-in-cheek.
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jimz
> Ryanator122
09/24/2016 at 17:52 |
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I was 50/50 on that being the case.
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Ryanator122
> shop-teacher
09/24/2016 at 18:06 |
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Whilst getting a new crate motor may come later, having looked in this block it’s in great shape for as old as it is. If/when I put a hole in it I’ll probably scavenge for an aluminum block.
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shop-teacher
> Ryanator122
09/24/2016 at 20:21 |
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Makes sense to me. If it were my truck I’d just put headers and cherry bombs on it. Let it sound mean and be slow :)
I loooooove square body Chevys by the way.
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Ryanator122
> shop-teacher
09/25/2016 at 00:43 |
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Haha, the dual it came with doesn’t sound too terrible.
Thanks man. Whilst I’m way more of a Ford guy, my family has always had cool Chevy trucks. Grandpa has a 1957 which is like 90% original.
loki03xlh
> DarkCreamyBeer
11/16/2016 at 09:40 |
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This. If you want reliable torque on the cheap, get a 5.3 (or a 6.0) from you local pick-n-pull. The local one sells all V8s for $195 plus $65 core charge.